I am a late comer to the sweet, exotic taste of fresh figs. I put this down to the fact that I didn’t grow up with a fig tree in the backyard, and so I never tasted fresh figs as a child. If I mention figs to those of my mother’s generation, they always respond with the word ‘jam’, indicating that fresh figs didn’t feature in their cooking repertoire but knew them only in jam. Figs, until recently, were not sold in fruit shops and markets, being difficult to transport and keep. You either learnt to love them or hate them based on your ready access to the fresh fruit. Figs now appear in our markets, especially farmer’s markets, and often fetch a grand price.

In Italy, figs have been associated with Cucina Povera, poor rural or peasant food based on seasonality. Many amusing idiomatic expressions centre around the humble fresh fig. If you say ‘mica pizza e fichi‘ you are indicating that something you have, such as a fine wine or a new purchase, was quite expensive, not like pizza and figs which are cheap and commonplace. Another expression- non importare un fico secco, ( doesn’t matter a dried fig) means something is of little importance, not unlike the English expression ‘not worth a fig’ or ‘couldn’t give a fig’, the latter phrase now modernised in Australia, a land not shy in embracing creative variations of the ‘F’ word, to ‘couldn’t give a fuck’, or ‘a flying fuck’. Given that fresh figs are now too expensive and fashionable, figgy expressions may become obsolete, unless you grow them yourself.

Ottolenghi’s Fig, Yoghurt and Almond Cake
200g unsalted butter
200g caster sugar, plus 1 tsp extra
3 large free-range eggs
180g ground almonds
100g plain flour
½ tsp salt
Scraped seeds of ½ vanilla pod or ½ tsp vanilla paste
1 tsp ground star anise
100g Greek yoghurt
12 figs
Heat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. Line the bottom and sides of a 24cm loose-based cake tin with baking parchment. Put the butter and sugar in an electric mixer bowl, and use a beater to work them well until they turn light and pale. Beat the eggs lightly, then, with the machine on medium speed, add them gradually to the bowl, just a dribble at a time, adding more only once the previous addition is fully incorporated. Once all the egg is in, mix together the almonds, flour, salt, vanilla and anise, and fold into the batter. Mix until the batter is smooth, then fold in the yogurt.
Pour the batter into the lined tin and level roughly with a palette knife or a spoon. Cut each fig vertically into four long wedges, and arrange in circles on top of the cake, just slightly immersed in the batter. Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 170C/340F/gas mark 3 and continue baking until it sets – about 40-45 minutes longer. Check this by inserting a skewer in the cake: it’s done if it comes out clean. Remove the cake from the oven and allow it to cool down before taking it out of the tin and sprinkling with a teaspoon of caster sugar.

Oh my! That looks delicious. I wish figs were in season here instead of the trees just about to begin getting leaves.
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Figging delicious!
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Hahahahha yes Peter it was.
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I can attest to this wonderful cake as I was privileged to have a piece just last week. Bellissimo!
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Thanks Bro.
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I love figs, and used to have a marvellously prolific tree…I miss that
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You would miss it- once you have one good tree, you expect to have figs for life.
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Yep!
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I’ve sent this recipe to mia nuora. I hope she takes the hint! 🙂
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Yes, Yvonne, maybe she’ll make it next season as you’re still travelling and might miss out this season.
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I’ll have to keep hinting, next year. The figs were so good this year.
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I didn’t grow up eating figs but I am making up for lost time now!
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When I do get fresh figs, I can’t bring myself to cook them, such is my passion for eating the fresh ones! But I sure wouldn’t turn down a piece of this cake if offered to me! I still remember the first time I ever tasted a fresh fig and it was in Rome when I was 21 years old. Up until then I had only eaten Fig Newton ‘cookies’ growing up in the USA. Thank you for the reminder Francesca.
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What a great place to become acquainted with fresh figs. 21 years old, first trip to Rome and the taste of figs- there’s an amazing story there Ardys.
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I’m completely envious of your figs and this cake looks delicious (yottam ottolenghi always delivers)! I have two figs in pots that put on a little fruit last year but alas this year they made an interstate relocation right at the time they were putting on their fruit and it was a little too much for them so no figs for me this year. I’m bookmarking this and your semifreddo recipe which I will hopefully be able to try out next year if the figs co-operate.
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I had my first taste of freshly picked figs on holiday in my twenties. Reading this is making my mouth yearn for that holiday again! Growing up, dried figs were always a treat for us at Christmas, absolutely nothing like fresh ones mind you.
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Figs make us recall great memories.
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Nom nom nom! I am craving this Francesca 🙂 You really are a wizard!
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It was a tasty cake Ishita.
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I didn’t grow up with figs either, but love them. Wonderful cooked with honey and the drizzled with more and served with mascarpone .. Now this cake sounds divine! I should live closer, shouldn’t I 😃
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