At the end of a busy day in Bali, often involving far more walking in the heat than one initially intended, returning to a peaceful, quiet and well maintained garden is a godsend. A beautiful garden has become a prerequisite when choosing accommodation in Bali, especially when visiting Ubud.
Unfortunately, Ubud has been loved to death. A private courtyard garden blocks out the pandemonium, the snarl of traffic, the fumes of motor bikes and the endless stream of slow walking tourists hunting for gewgaws, monkeys and food. This is my farewell tribute to one of Ubud’s most delightful gardens. Aging and velvet mossed Buddhist and Hindu statues, inviting seating platforms, beautifully carved and painted doors, screening plants and tropical flowers, archways and entrances and stands of bamboo, evoke a traditional Bali midst a heavily urbanised town. The daily noiseless tending of tropical plants by gardeners and the morning placement of fresh hibiscus flowers and canang sari on all the statues and family temple have called me back to the charming Honeymoon Guesthouse year after year. Situated in Jalan Bisma, development and congested traffic has finally overwhelmed this once tranquil street. I cannot return. My love of Ubud now dwells in the past. I can revisit her there.
A big suksma ( Balinese for thankyou, best said with hands in prayer position) to all the gardeners of Bali. Without these steady, quiet and humble workers, Bali would not be so inviting.
The following collage is a media file. Tour the garden by opening the first photo and following the arrows.
ALMOST ITALIAN 
Have been over most of the Pacific islands but sadly missed the Bali you have shown, the island paradise I should have visited decades ago. A beautiful walk around the world you have so enjoyed – thank you! Just this past week there has been quite a vituperative debate in the Oz papers and social media about statements by some journalists that the island now is but a bogan escape to the sun . . . . with angry retorts by the opposite side that all Australians cannot afford to be swilling champagne in Paris !!
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I’ve heard all that crap before. The media likes to play that card often. Travel snobs avoid Bali, thinking they are a cut above the average Australian. But Bali, the real Bali, still exists. The last town I visited in the north west is predominantly visited by the French and the Dutch. The boguns that the Australian media likes to portray tend to stay around Kuta, Legian and Seminyak. Avoid those areas and you’ll be safe. Bali is many things to many people. But yet, this small island paradise is still tended to and home to the Balinese people, something we cannot say about Venice, for example.
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Yes, your point actually did come up on a few TV commentaries I came upon, saying the oft drunken and drugged behaviour of a section of the younger visitors on the beaches and night-time ‘escpades’ in the popular shopping streets was causing embarrassment to many other Australian visitors . . . *smile* . . . . may yet get there to see the soul of the land . . .
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So sad that the hectic aspects of life have caught up to your quiet retreat. Where to now?
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It is the European season here- we usually avoid late July and August. I think Ubud has finally peaked and any more development will kill it.
Next, off to Chiang Mai to investigate retirement options, then Hong Kong, then Europe.
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So just reread this because we’re thinking of travelling to Bali. So if Ubud has become crowded and comercial where would you recommend we base ourselves.
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Ubud was really awful last late July. Crowded and over developed. I will never go back there. If you go there off season it may be better.
As a low key beachy place, Sanur is quite good. It is suburban in the back streets but the long 5 km or so walking path along the sea is rather lovely and unusual for Bali. There are flash places and smaller places- depending on your budget. The months of July and August are best avoided though, as is the case anywhere in the world I guess.
We quite like going up to Pemuteran on the north coast. Much like old Bali, but with some nice places to stay and do nothing. The sand is black up there and the beach not so appealing, but the diving is good if you fancy going out on a boat. Mr T does that while I hang by the pool. there are many inland places on rice terraces which are beautiful, but I am always drawn to the sea. Inland may not be so good for Bali virgins. Just avoid the following places- Kuta, Legian, Seminyak. That side is like a shopping circus. Happy to give you further info any time Sandra.
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Thanks Francesca I really appreciate your input, I’m sure there’ll be a load more questions while we’re in the planning stages😘
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We are there in late September again, then a bit of Lombok . How will I get through Melbourne winter is the problem.
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Come north..
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Amazing shots.. 😃
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Thanks Pooja.
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Beautiful pictures and the narration.. Day by day I am more and more attracted towards Bali.. 😍
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Thanks Raj, It is a very special island.
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Beautiful images, and sad that this place is no longer what it was, but nothing stays the same forever!
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So true Sue.
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Sadly so…
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it looks so enchanted there, somewhere to get lost in
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Your photos of the Ubud garden engender peace and tranquility. I know your post is not about Austin, Texas, but I have to comment on the similarity of what happened to Ubud and what has happened to Austin. I lived in Austin, Texas for 27 years and moved for similar reasons as to why you won’t return to Ubud. The Austin metro area is the fastest growing in the US. The population increased from 1,998,104 to 2,056,405 between July 1, 2015 and July 1 2016. The people who moved to Austin ruined it for those who already lived there. It became ugly, overcrowded, and expensive. Driving 4.5 miles from work to home took 45 minutes. Austin, like Ubud, was loved too much until its original essence was trampled by a stampede of people.
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A beautiful farwell Francesca.
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Only a farewell to Ubud. I’m happy to return to less touristed spots in Bali.
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Beautiful images Francesca. I enjoyed my visit to Ubud years back. This garden looks like the perfect escape from hordes of tourists …
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