The first time I attended a Balinese Kecak Dance was in 1979. We travelled through darkness in a bemo, a basic van with side seats in the back, to a village some distance from Ubud. We passed through dense jungle and small lamp lit villages along the way: at that time, electric lighting was limited, intermittent and unreliable in Bali. Darkness held more mystery then and the Kecak fire dance, always held at night, was more exotic and entrancing. That performance was raw and primitive, leaving an impression of sound, fire, and primordial noise. We sat in a dusty circle around the men and I recall the black and white checked sarongs, the glowing honey coloured skin of the men, and the loud repetitive harsh chanting, as well as the central role played by Hanuman, the monkey.
Recently, almost 40 years later, we attended another Kecak dance at Uluwatu temple on sunset. The fabulous setting added drama to the story. The amphitheatre and stage, a large arena bordered by Balinese carved entrances and dense Bougainvillea, sits on the edge of the Bukit Peninsula, alongside the sacred temple of Uluwatu. The audience wear ceremonial purple sarongs or orange sashes in keeping with the dress requirements of this sacred park. Just after sunset, the show begins.
The Kecak dance and drama, ( pronounced kechuck ) was developed in the 1930s. While relatively new, it draws on the ancient traditions and legends of the Ramayana. Since its creation, it has been performed primarily by men. Also known as the Ramayana Monkey Chant, the piece is performed by a circle of between 75 and 150 men chanting “cak cak” and other rhythmic and forest noises while moving their hands and arms. There is no accompanying music. One could compare the sound to beatboxing. In the drama, the loyal monkey, Hanuman, helps Prince Rama fight the evil King Ravana. Other Ramayana characters include Sita, Garuda, Holy Man, Twalen, Laksmana, Trijata and servants.
In the modern version, Hanoman steals the show. His initial monkey-like scratching eventually brings roars of laughter when he resorts to scratching his crutch. After Hanoman escapes the ring of fire and the story comes to a close, he reappears as a naughty but loveable dramatic character, an acrobatic comedian who taunts and teases the audience. At one point, an intrusive camera waving tourist gets in his way. Hanoman grabs him, turns him around and attempts to pull his shorts down. The crowd laps it up. Then Hanoman leaps into the audience and takes a seat, grabs the glasses from a nearby tourist and places them on his head. This modern Hanoman has learnt a few tricks from the real naughty monkeys that inhabit the Uluwatu park. The crowd roars with delight and the children are entranced.
It was worth seeing the Kecak dance again. Despite the crowds and chaos of ticket buying, I can highly recommend this show.
ALMOST ITALIAN 
WOW! The tourist crowds have certainly swelled. I recall an experience with being taken to a Kecak dance by donkey and cart in 1981 – A rather small group of tourists in attendance and I was bewitched throughout the entire ceremony. Once the flame lamps went out after the performance I couldn’t find my ride home. I was left to make my own way through the darkened streets and was so scared a boogy man was going to jump out and offer me as a sacrifice. Interesting to note that they now have seats for the audience just like the penguin parade at Phillip Island.
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The seats are concrete and they pack them in. I recommend a cushion padded sarong, This version, was performed in the tourist end of town. The Bukit is packed, especially in July and August when most Europeans swarm to Bali. Good to note that Indians are now big travellers. I found the level of tourism a bit annoying as I dont usually come to Bali in these months. Come in October and November, or April and May, and you’ll find a lovely quiet place.
Yes, back in those days, things were a bit scary in the back blocks of Bali. we once attended an all night Wayang puppet Ramayana performance in a village and had no idea how to get back to the losmen. we were beside ourselves, lost in the dark, but someone turned up… Back then, lighting a fat Gudam Garama ciggy solved most problems.
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I think it was a horse and cart, not a bemo, back then. You have a better memory than I do.
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Such a cultural and traditional experience Francesca. I am one of the minority that has not holidayed in Bali yet…!!!
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Neither have I.
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Welcome to the club 😉
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Choose your month carefully. Late July and August is very busy. Bali cops a lot of flack for tourism, yet most places in Europe are inundated by millions more. Some places in the north of Bali are still very traditional and quiet.
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Note taken. X
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Is this a stopover on the way to Europe?
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Yes a stopover with 15 family members for a special birthday. Then Chiang Mai, then Hong Kong, and then Europe.
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This dance is something I wish I could see in person. It sounds so terrific. My sister has visited Bali. I have not.
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Every time you post about Bali I say something to Mr PPTR about how great you make it look. I’m keen to go there away from the crazy touristy madness, hoping for assent soon.
Enjoy your mega escape
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Thanks Sandra. The important thing is to go in a quiet month, not July and August. And choose your location carefully- not Legian/Seminyak area. And to seek culture . It’s there for those who care to find it. ( I know you are one of those travellers.)
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Ah that must have been some performance Francesca 😃Lots of colourful pics. Thought of you when we were in France savouring beautiful cheese and sipping on Rose ..
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Are you still there Julie?
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No homeward bound ..
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sob.
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