6 AM. Jimbaran Bay. Small pyres of leaf litter and debris burn, smoke mixing with heat haze, as women languidly rake. A tourist walks briskly along the water’s edge while local men sit alone and quietly gaze at the horizon. Old wooden boat dollies stand along the sand, sentries lying in wait for boats to arrive. Loyal dogs sense their masters’ return. I also sit on the sand and enjoy this window of tranquility and inertia. Sleep still lingers.
A small jukung, a brightly painted Balinese fishing boat, arrives at the water’s edge after a night fishing out from the bay. Although jukung may seem simple in the eyes of the foreign traveller, there is an underlying symbolism associated with these fishing boats: they are constructed following a strict set of religious guidelines.
“When a fisherman decides to build a new boat he must first carefully choose the tree that will be used for its timber. The Balinese prefer to use the wood from the indigenous Belalu or Camplung tree, which is light, strong and ideal for boat building. Such a tree can only be cut down on an auspicious date in accordance to the ancient Balinese calendar and a special day is also sought for construction to commence. All members of the local fishing community offer their carpentry skills to construct a new jukung and this social interaction is a vital element of the Balinese Hindu culture.”
“The majority of jukung are built using a set of dimensions that are closely related to the owner’s personal body measurements. The Balinese strongly believe in harmonizing with the physical environment and spiritual world, thus human measurements are used in an effort to balance these invisible forces. Just like a human body, a jukung is not symmetrical. In fact, the bamboo floats that are attached to both sides and run from the bow to the stern are not even parallel. Yet this basic, but ingenious design gives the jukung a heightened degree of stability when out on the open seas.”
“Once the jukung has been fully constructed and brightened up with a bold coat of paint, it then undergoes a complex blessing ceremony. Offerings of rice, flowers and fruit are presented to appease the Gods and the jukung is sprinkled with holy water by a priest before it is considered seaworthy. The jutting bow is decorated with an image of the mythical Gajah Mina (elephant fish) with its fierce bulging eyes to ward off evil. The spirit of Gajah Mina is also thought to bear the power of night vision and guide the jukung through all sorts of weather conditions”¹
The men along the beach are roused into action: they move purposefully towards the boat. One man pulls the boat dolly into place while others gather alongside the bamboo side floats. The scene is now swarming with helpers: more men move towards the boat from distant points along the beach; the boat becomes a gravitational magnet. The fishing community have been waiting for this moment.
The boat is hauled onto the wooden sand trailer: more men arrive and the boat is pushed to a higher point along the shore.
The morning heat haze lifts as the sun rises: the men become more animated through shared activity and camaraderie. Pagi pagi ( early morning ) turns into pagi (morning). Another boat is about to turn up. There will be many more.
Selimat pagi , good morning to you dear reader from beautiful Bali.
¹ http://www.tanahlot.net/home/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1171:jukung-as
ALMOST ITALIAN 
What a beautiful post, Francesca. It would be easy to think that the lifestyle of the fishermen is simple, but obviously it is highly complex and steeped in rituals which bind them together and strengthens the structure and meaning of their lives. Each individual would feel valued there. There is much to learn, isn’t there, about other cultures and perhaps it would improve the behaviour of some Aussie’s overseas if they had a better appreciation of the culture they are spending their holiday in.
LikeLiked by 3 people
Yes, Jan so true. I have been coming to Bali now for 37 years and I still have so much to learn from the Balinese. Their culture inspires me. I avoid those spots where Aussies generally gather. Sometimes the behaviour of Europeans, or should I say barbarian dress code, is rather appalling too.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Beautiful. I’ve been to Jimbaran Bay once before – glad to know it’s still a magical place! xxx
LikeLiked by 1 person
This is my first time here- I usually go to other spots. So far I am pleasantly surprised. xx
LikeLike
So beautiful and serene. Love how you tell the story of the fishermen and how the community spirit lives on in Bali. There are some benefits of being an early riser!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Morning is the best time for me- in very country.
LikeLike
Me, too (currently 5:50 am)
LikeLike
Hahha, well, it is a good time to write and also to have some solo time.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I didn’t see any of these boats the last time we visited and I guess that’s because they are hard work to haul in and out of the water when there are other motorised options that can be anchored further out. I suppose if I was a fisherman, I’d go for the easiest option too. Terima kasih
LikeLiked by 1 person
Odd, they are everywhere along the strip. They are motorised but to get up onto the beach requires help.
LikeLike
Inside I breathed a sigh of longing reading this. So much of our culture is not laden with meaning, but hastily acquired in a materialistic frenzy. Beautiful writing and photos. Wishing you much enjoyment.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks Ardys. I think we can learn something from the Balinese, the spirit of c0-operation being one of them.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Loved this piece of writing and the beautiful spirit of the people that it imbued.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks Lisa, Balinese culture is inspiring.
LikeLiked by 1 person
The morning light is beautiful in your photos. The rituals surrounding the boat, construction to function obviously create an enormous sense of pride of ownership, not just for the individual but for the community of fishermen as a whole. The best part of travel is discoveries like this, thanks and enjoy Bali…
LikeLiked by 1 person
Jimbaran Bay is all about fishing and selling fish, so my week here will probably focus on that/. Morning light is so lovely here- the day time is too glary and bright to even bother taking the camera( but I do anyway) . I love the Balinese people.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I just came from Bangkok and I immediately want to go back. Asia is such a wonderful region to visit. I haven’t been to Bali in a couple of years now and I miss it.
LikeLiked by 1 person
A wonderful post, Francesca, and beautifully written. It perfectly illustrates much that we’ve lost in our modern age.
LikeLike
How beautifully described about the fishermen and the traditions with the building of boats. I have not been to Bali, but your love for the Balinese shines! Maybe some day…
LikeLiked by 1 person
I love the way you travel and so beautiully and generously convey what you see, experience and learn ♡
LikeLike
Thanks Dale. There is always so much more to learn.
LikeLike