Although never a pearl wearer in the past, having my fashion sense indelibly carved out during the height of the hippy era, I now don a set of these freshwater pearls, grey in colour and discreet in size, grown somewhere in the waters of Lombok and sold to me by Dr Pearl.
Dr Pearl is one of those characters who wanders up and down the sandy beach of Sanur, Bali. Commerce is fairly low-key in Sanur and so a travelling beach salesman is not entirely unwelcome, even if the senses are more keenly fastened on a cold Bintang beer with a grilled Mahi Mahi fish steak or passing the time aimlessy gazing at the distant view of Nusa Penida across the water. Barefooted and small of stature, he appears out of the blue, double knotting as he talks, reaching into his small bags of freshwater pearls, strong cotton in hand, twisting, knotting, adding a pearl, and knotting anew. He is a keen salesman and negotiations might take place over a day or a week. He always knows your travel movements and so is not in a hurry to finalise the deal.
He remembers you from year to year, and greets you like an old friend. I always buy exactly the same necklace, in the same colour, each time. His recollection of the price I paid last time, however, is always much higher than mine. His wife and four children live in Lombok, which is not so far by hydrofoil for the average cashed up tourist, but far enough by the old slow boat for the locals. Dr Pearl returns home only a few times a year: his life is firmly entrenched in this small strip of Sanur Beach. If you see Doctor Pearl, give him a chance. He knows when you aren’t interested but always recognises the glint of desire in a woman’s eye.
For Rosalie and Helen, accomplice and witmess to pearl purchasing.
ALMOST ITALIAN 
I tried knotting pearls a few times and it is tricky. But if you specialise in it, as does Dr. Pearl, I can see one could get very adept at it. Nice, personal story. I’m not generally a pearl wearer either, though I do have an interesting freshwater pearl necklace made on a length of soft grey suede cord and it simply lays one end over the other and hangs loosely around the neck. Thank you, Francesca.
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Your velvety necklace sounds lovely-one of your creations?
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No, it isn’t. I don’t wear much jewellery and most of what I do wear isn’t my own. Terrible admission. It’s not that I don’t like what I make, I just don’t wear much jewellery. I honestly think a lot of the reason is the heat. I don’t want anything around my neck in the hot weather, which by the way it is filthy hot and even a bit humid here today!
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I have been wearing salt water and fresh water pearls for many years and I Love them. I always feel so feminine when I have them on
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Also nice to contrast-pearls,singlet and jeans.
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Gnarly baroque freshwater pearls of deep deep hues I love. The other remind me of twinsets and demure pleated skirts. Love Dr Pearl’s table of treasures..
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True, I could never do the demure version but the greys and blacks… bring them to Mama.
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I don’t wear pearls, as you say they bring to mind demure older ladies in twinsets…..
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I adore pearls. They make the complexion glow! And that’s one of the reasons why I like Sanur. It’s laid back and relaxing.
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My mother is a great wearer of pearls, and treats them with great care always saying that they ought to be worn or they lose their lustre. This is a wonderful portrait of a place and a person. Thank you!
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I like your mother’s thinking. She sounds just like mine .
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I love the idea of adding a strand each year. I have pearl drop earrings from Broome which I treasure and a necklace with snakeskin jasper, onyx & freshwater pearls, as well as ’80’s pearl studs.
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That dark beaded necklace sounds stunning .
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mmm, I’ve mislead you… it’s technically serpentine jasper not snakeskin … green predominantly. And it is stunning, the G.O. has good taste.
Grey pearls are so elegant.
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Love your tale, Francesca….and the salesman’s price recollection!!
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Thanks, Francesca. It’s interesting to meet the man behind the strand of pearls in the display case. I rarely think of how the pearls got there.
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