There were a few surprises hiding in the vegetable garden when we returned from our long sojourn in Indonesia: a crop of zucchini, some small ruby radicchio, herbs, pumpkin, chilli, and a bundle of borlotti beans. I hung on to the last zucchini of the season until the first day of winter. Now we will be zucchini free until next November. Some may say that’s a blessing! Six months of fecundity and benevolence and six months of none. Ci vediamo in primavera.
To celebrate slicing into the last one, I constructed a dish made from my favourite ingredients: fresh calamari, radicchio, garlic, chilli, good olive oil, wine and squid ink pasta. This isn’t a pasta dish as such: the black tangle of pasta gives a little more body to the dish but doesn’t dominate. The following recipe is an attempt to quantify a spontaneous dish. And, given the absence of winter light, my photos are hazy and dull.
Zucchini e Calamari Mescolanza (serves two)
- two tablespoons EV olive oil
- half a medium zucchini, very finely sliced
- 2 fresh calamari, cleaned then sliced thinly *
- radicchio leaves to taste, shredded roughly
- 2-3 garlic cloves, chopped
- one fresh hot chilli, chopped finely
- one handful of black squid ink pasta (about 60 gr)
- white wine
- salt, black pepper
- Cook the pasta in salted boiling water. Drain, retaining a little cooking water.
- Meanwhile, heat oil in a large frying pan. You need a lively heat as this is a fast dish.
- Add the zucchini slices and toss well till lightly coloured and very soft.
- Add the garlic and chilli, toss well.
- Add the finely sliced calamari, cook for around two minutes only, tossing as you go.
- then add the shredded radicchio leaves and toss for a one minute.
- add a good slurp of wine, reduce a little, then add the pasta to the pan, add a little cooking water, reduce, then season.
- Serve in wide, heated bowls.*
* A good fish monger should clean the calamari for you. Don’t bother using the rubber tubes from the supermarket. They will spoil a good dish. Fresh squid is a good substitute and more economical. Don’t throw out the wings. Freeze them and add to another dish later, such as a pasta or risotto marinara. Read the following recipe from Sandra at Please Pass the Recipe for an economical approach to using seafood scraps.
* Why wide heated bowls? I never used to heat plates and bowls when I was working full-time and coming home to cook for five or more. Since then, I have adopted bowl heating as a matter of course, particularly for pasta, soup and risotto. Imagine making a lovely hot dish and then plonking it into a freezing bowl? The temperature of the food cools almost immediately, whereas a hot bowl acts as a food warmer for the duration of the meal.
For my son Andrew, who recently commented about the heating of bowls, thinking that his mother had finally turned totally anal and lost the plot. He may be right!