In Melbourne, Brunswick is the home of Middle Eastern food, with numerous Lebanese and Turkish restaurants lining the northern end of Sydney Road. Along with Persian sweet shops, the emerging Shisha ( hookah) bars as well as some notorious Middle Eastern bread shops and grocery stores, a visit to Sydney Road, Brunswick is an exciting and inexpensive trip to another world. I can highly recommend a tram ride on Route number 19 to North Coburg, via Lebanon,Turkey and Iran.
I have been cooking food from this region for many years. The salads are vibrant and fresh with herbs used in abundance. The little mezze or starters make wonderful lunches, and the colourful and earthy dips made from fresh vegetables and pulses are so quick to throw together. It is also naturally vegetarian, apart from kebabs, with so much to choose from.
Today, as part of this month’s ‘The Cookbook Guru’s ‘ focus on Claudia Roden’s ‘The New Middle Eastern Cookbook,’ I am heading straight to Turkey. This little side dish, Kisir, is simple to make and would be an exciting foil to many other Mezze. The recipe comes from Claudia’s ‘Arabesque’ as I was unable to obtain the original classic, but I am sure some recipes remain the same.
Kisir ( serves 6)
- 200 g fine-ground bulgur
- 125 g boiling water
- 1 Tbles tomato paste
- juice of 1-2 lemons
- 5 Tbles extra virgin olive oil
- 1 fresh red or green chilli , finely chopped
- 5- 7 spring onions
- 300 g tomatoes, diced
- bunch of flat leafed parsley, ( 50g) chopped
- bunch of mint ( 25 g) chopped
- To serve – 2 baby Cos or Little Gem Lettuces
- Put the bulgur into a bowl, pour the boiling water over it, stir and leave for 15- 20 minutes until the grain is tender. Don’t be tempted to add more water since the juice from the lemons and tomatoes will soften it further.
- Add the tomato paste, juice, and oil, the chilli, salt and mix thoroughly. Trim the green tops of the spring onions, then slice them finely. Add them and the diced tomatoes to the bulgur mix, together with the parsley and mint.
- Serve with the small lettuce around the edge of the salad. Another way is to roll the bulgur mixture into balls the size of a small egg and to place one in the hollow of a baby lettuce leaf.
Variation. Add 1- 2 tablespoons of pomegranate molasses to the dressing.
I had to add more boiling water in step one. Despite Claudia’s warning, I found this to be necessary.
I used the pomegranate molasses and enjoyed this extra dimension.
I notice that Ottolenghi also has this recipe in ‘Plenty’. Claudia’s version of this classic is so delightfully simple.
Below- Sydney Road, Melbourne 3056. Catch a tram or walk, it’s always stimulating.